Wednesday, January 20, 2010

FT-817 data jack / Vox mod

The 817 allows you to setup the data port for SSB type data for modes like PSK31, RTTY, Hell, etc...
But I recently found the need to use FM through the data port. In this case, the internal VOX feature would be handy. Unfortunately, FM is not an option through the data port.

A few days ago, I stumbled upon a mod for the FT-817 that enables the internal VOX feature through the data port.
The original how-to can be found here.



The IC of interest is on the bottom side of the board.
If that photo is too small to see, you basically run a 10k resistor from pin 12 to pin 4 or 1.
I used some 30 gauge wire soldered to the resistor, glued the resistor to the board and then ran my wires and soldered to the chip. Needless to say, the soldering was quite delicate work.


Ignore the jumper and the red wording.
That was from the original document.
Note the orange resistor I drew in, this is
where I put mine.

Reassemble and give it the test. Put the rig into FM mode, turn on VOX, and hook up the data interface. You may need to turn up the VOX gain.
Important: Unplug the microphone! It's easy to forget that with VOX on for data, the mic is still picking up your background noise.

After doing this mod, I set my radio up and fired up echolink. I was able to quickly setup an echolink repeater and use my HT to connect to echolink enabled repeaters all over the world.

IC-706 stock microphone repair. HM-103

A friend of mine was recently faced with a broken tension clip on the RJ-45 of an HM-103 mic. (Stock microphone for the IC-706Mk1)
I offered to replace the connector knowing how easy it should be to just crimp on a new one.

WRONG!

After lopping off the defective end, I was shocked to find that the wire colors in the connector didn't match the colors in the chopped end.

With the flat side facing you the connector was as follows:
Empty,Black,Empty,Green,Black,White,Blue,Empty

The wires in the cable were: Black,Green,Bare,White,Blue,Red.

I couldn't even tell on the chopped end where the bare or red wires go. I searched the web up and down and found several people looking for the same solution. I never found an answer, so I resorted to surgery on the broken end.
I finally discovered that the red wire was simply not used, and the bare wire was surrounded with heat shrink to make crimping easier inside the connector.

So, the correct pin layout is: Blank,Black,Blank,Green,Bare,White,Blue,Blank

I crimped the new end on, and voila. Worked FB.

Hopefully this helps anyone that find themselves needing to make this repair.